Outfitter
La Cima Logistics is the recommended outfitter. They can do as little as organize rides. Or, they can do as much as take care of your Lima and Huaraz transportation and accommodation, organize guides, porters, donkeys, and so on. With no conflict of interest, I recommend La Cima because they seamlessly bridge the gap between North American/ European and Peruvian business mindsets/expectations, and because I have had uniformly positive experiences hiring their services. The owner, Chris, is originally from Minnesota, USA. E-mail directly to Chris at cafeandino@hotmail.com, whatsapp at (51) 943 914 063, or check out www.lacimalogistics.com
Money
The currency is Peruvian soles (S/3.50 ~ $1 USD). Bring S/150 cash per person for fees while in the Huayhuash. Tip private drivers S/10 for shorter rides and S/20 for longer rides. For a relatively self-sufficient trip (including airfare, accommodation, etc.), expect to pay $2,000 USD, and more for a more supported adventure.
Acclimatization
Book a flight to Lima, a bus ticket on Cruz del Sur from Lima to Huaraz and all the accommodation you need on AirBnB. Make sure your phone is unlocked and get a Peruvian SIM card. Use Uber instead of taxis (cheaper and safer). Once in Huaraz, I recommend an initial acclimatization day hike to Churup Lake (4450m; ~$20 USD for a private ride each way; 1h drive & 2h hike each way). I then recommend getting acclimatized to sleeping above 4000m by doing the Santa Cruz Trek over 2 days (1 if you're keen). It is 48km and crosses a 4800m pass called Punta Union (~$90 USD for a private ride each way, 5h to Vaqueria, 3h from Cashapampa) and has incredible views of Taulliraju.
Santa Cruz Trek with Taulliraju behind
Huaraz to the Huayhuash
To get to the Alpine Circuit, hire a private ride from Huaraz to Rondoy for ~$120 USD each way + S/20 tip. Rondoy is a homestead at the foot of the north end of the Huayhuash and situated on the road between Llamac and Quartelhuain (about 15k E of Llamac and 4km S of Quartelhuain). The ride from Huaraz is 4-5h, with the first half (to Chiquian) being on pavement and the second half on a gravel road with a soft shoulder and with much exposure. Request a cautious driver. Fees of S/30 per person are extracted in Llamac and S/15 per person in Pocpa.
Until ~ 2005, approaching the Huayhuash involved a 2-day walk from Chiquian. The roads from Chiquian to Llamac and then from Llamac to Rondoy were completed recently, improving access to the Huayhuash. Between Llamac and Rondoy, the road passes under the Susana Mine (lead, silver, zinc). Public transportation is less expensive than a private ride. However, public transport will only get you as far as Llamac and it is next to impossible to hire transport from Llamac to Rondoy while in Llamac.
Until ~ 2005, approaching the Huayhuash involved a 2-day walk from Chiquian. The roads from Chiquian to Llamac and then from Llamac to Rondoy were completed recently, improving access to the Huayhuash. Between Llamac and Rondoy, the road passes under the Susana Mine (lead, silver, zinc). Public transportation is less expensive than a private ride. However, public transport will only get you as far as Llamac and it is next to impossible to hire transport from Llamac to Rondoy while in Llamac.
Equipment and Food
Given the quantity of elevation gain and loss, I recommend going light or hiring porters. Expect temperatures around 10C during the day and -5C at night. These are the non-obvious staples that I recommend:
Camping & Hiking
Technical
Food
- 30L pack
Camping & Hiking
- An ultralight tent (ideally < .5 kg such as the Hyperlite; leave the mesh/body in Huaraz)
- A sleeping bag rated to -5C + lightweight inflatable mattress
- A light, efficient stove (e.g., Jetboil) with one fuel canister per 2 people
- Trail-running shoes (comfort and traction on sloping dirt/grass are key) with micro gaitors
- Hiking poles
- A smartphone with a mapping app (e.g., MapOut), the gpx track loaded onto it, portable smartphone batteries and cable
- A printout of the route description
- A physical map (available in Huaraz or at pixmap.org)
- A GPS communication device (e.g., Garmin inReach) to use in case of emergency, to get weather forecasts, and to update the outfitter regarding pick-up times.
- Water filter or water purification tabs
Technical
- Rope, harness, slings. For most parties, a 25m 7mm rope, lightweight harnesses, belay/rappel devices, and slings for belaying up to and rappelling from Garagocha Col and getting over Rasac Col are recommended. For parties whose members are all (a) comfortable soloing blocky 5.0 rock (up and down) at altitude with a pack and (b) comfortable stepping across a few small crevasses unroped, all of these materials may be expendable.
- Crampons. For most parties, ultralight crampons (e.g., OuterStar) will be ideal for getting up the glacier to Rasac Pass. Note that the only ice slope that is >15 degrees is the final slope approaching Rasac Col, which is avoidable on the left via easy rock scrambling.
- Ice axe. An ice axe is probably unnecessary for the majority of parties, especially if they have hiking poles.
- Ice screws and pickets. These are also probably unnecessary for most parties.
- Helmets. You decide. It’s your head.
Food
- For each day, I bring ~ 2000 calories:
- 1 cup of granola with skim milk powder
- 5 energy bars (e.g, Clifbars)
- a 700+ calorie freeze-dried meal
- coffee powder
