Weather
7-day forecast below... click here for 14-day forecast
Styles
Parties can complete the Alpine Circuit with or without support from porters and/or donkeys. Porters are able to complete the entire circuit, can carry 10kg plus their own gear, and cost ~USD$60 per day + 10% tip. Donkeys can support travellers from the start of the Circuit (Rondoy but only if Days 1 & 2 are combined as a day trip; end of Day 2 otherwise) to the middle of Day 5 (Trapecio Pass) and possibly reconnecting at the end of Day 7 (consult with the outfitter). Donkeys (burros) can carry 40kg and cost ~USD$12 per day + ~USD$20 per day for the donkey driver (ariero) + 10% tip. Porters can serve as camp cooks when donkey support is available. The upside of a donkey supported trip include having only a daypack for 5.5 (out of 8) days of the Alpine Circuit, having a more comfortable camp, with a dining tent with chairs and a table, and hearty meals (e.g., fish, chicken, beef, potatoes, rice, desert, coffee, eggs, bread). The downside of donkey support include several kms more hiking on Days 2-4 (find gpx files on the descriptions for those days), busier camps on nights 2 & 3, missing out on camping at Chaclan Lake (a stunning location), and the monetary element. Contact the outfitter for up-to-date pricing, options, and details.
Mountain Guide
If you seek a certified mountain guide (UIAGM, UIMLA, AGMP), I recommend Expe Peru. Their staff have guided the Alpine Circuit more than a dozen times and played a role in the development of the Alpine Circuit. Unlike many other guiding agencies, they include all the iconic places in their itinerary. I know and have worked personally with an Expe Peru guide; I was immensely impressed by the professionalism and expertise. Check them out on Instagram at @expeperu or contact them directly via the link above.
Outfitter
For somewhat more self-directed trips, La Cima Logistics is the recommended outfitter. They can take care of your Lima and Huaraz transportation and accommodation, organize guides, porters, donkeys, and so on. With no conflict of interest, I recommend La Cima because they seamlessly bridge the gap between North American/ European and Peruvian business mindsets/expectations, and because I have had uniformly positive experiences hiring their services. The owner, Chris, is originally from Minnesota, USA. Contact Chris at [email protected] or via whatsapp at (51) 943 914 063.
Gut Health
Sanitation in Peru is poor. Tap water is not safe to drink. Having been to Peru 7 times, I've developed some habits that tend to keep me healthy.
- buy bottled water or use water purification tabs on tap water
- use hand sanitizer before every meal
- eat only in up-scale restaurants with a good reputation (my personal favourite in Huaraz is Cafe Andino)
- avoid uncooked vegetables unless you've washed them yourself thoroughly
- see a pharmacist in Huaraz and load up on over-the-counter medications for Giardia, e-coli, salmonella, etc. so that you can self-medicate if needed when in the hills
Money
The currency is Peruvian soles (S/3.70 ~ $1 USD). Bring S/300 cash per person for fees while in the Huayhuash. Tip private drivers S/10 for shorter rides and S/20 for longer rides. For a relatively self-sufficient trip (including airfare, accommodation, etc.), expect to pay USD$2,000, and more for a more supported adventure. Money changers accept only clean, crisp USD bills. All Peruvian ATMs except the red National Bank ones charge large withdrawal fees. Transactions are usually limited to S/400 per withdrawal.
Getting to Huaraz
Beginning in 2024, LATAM Airlines started flying from Lima to Huaraz (ATA). Alternatively, grab a ticket on Cruz del Sur bus from Lima to Huaraz and all the accommodation you need on AirBnB or stay in local hotels or hostels. Make sure your phone is unlocked and get a Peruvian SIM card or e-SIM. Use Uber instead of taxis (cheaper and safer).
Acclimatization
I take Acetazolamide aka Diamox and routinely acclimatize from sea level to 4800m in 4 days.
From Huaraz, I recommend an initial acclimatization day hike to Churup Lake (4450m; ~$20 USD for a taxi each way; 1h drive & 2h hike each way). I then recommend getting acclimatized to sleeping above 4000m by hanging out at the hut (Refugio) in Quebrada Llaca with a day-hike to 4800m toward moraine camp on Vallunaraju. Alternatively, the Santa Cruz Trek over 2-3 days (1 if you're keen) is a more adventurous option (~$90 USD for a taxi each way, 5h to Vaqueria, 3h from Cashapampa) and has incredible views of Taulliraju.
From Huaraz, I recommend an initial acclimatization day hike to Churup Lake (4450m; ~$20 USD for a taxi each way; 1h drive & 2h hike each way). I then recommend getting acclimatized to sleeping above 4000m by hanging out at the hut (Refugio) in Quebrada Llaca with a day-hike to 4800m toward moraine camp on Vallunaraju. Alternatively, the Santa Cruz Trek over 2-3 days (1 if you're keen) is a more adventurous option (~$90 USD for a taxi each way, 5h to Vaqueria, 3h from Cashapampa) and has incredible views of Taulliraju.
Churup Lake acclimatization day hike (4400m)
Acclimatizing on Vallunraju moraine camp trail above Llaca Hut with Ranralpaca behind (4800m)
Acclimatizing on the Santa Cruz Trek with Taulliraju behind (4800m)
Huaraz to the Huayhuash
The Alpine Circuit begins in Rondoy, a nondescript creek at the foot of the north end of the Huayhuash and situated on the road between Llamac and Quartelhuain (about 15k E of Llamac and 4km S of Quartelhuain; refer to the GPX). The ride from Huaraz is 4-5h, with the first half (to Chiquian) being on pavement and the second half on a gravel road with a soft shoulder and much exposure. Fees of S/50 per person are extracted in Llamac and S/20 per person in Pocpa. Until ~2005, approaching the Huayhuash involved a 2-day walk from Chiquian. The roads from Chiquian to Llamac and then from Llamac to Rondoy were completed in the 2010s, improving access to the Huayhuash. Between Llamac and Rondoy, the road passes under the Huanzala Mine (lead, silver, zinc, silver, pyrite, rhodochrosite, epidote) operated by Mitsui.
There are thee ways of getting to Rondoy, with increasing levels of convenience and cost (USD$40 - $180):
There are thee ways of getting to Rondoy, with increasing levels of convenience and cost (USD$40 - $180):
- Least convenient & cheapest. During tourist season, catch the daily collectivo (collective taxi) that runs from Huaraz to Chiquian and another to Llamac, leaving around 5am from Huaraz. Inquire locally about where and when to catch it and current cost. Then try to hitch a ride from Llamac to Rondoy (or walk for 4h). The return collectivo leaves Llamac around 1pm.
- There are two Huaraz hostels (Krusty Hostel and Big Mountain Hostel) that run frequent Valley Circuit trips. It might be possible to hitch a ride to the Alpine Circuit with them if they have space.
- Most convenient & expensive. Hire a taxi. Two recommended drivers are: Jacinto Mendoza +51 998 967 136 (whatsapp) and Solano Zaragoza Villanueva (Sr. Solano) +51 969 504 066 (whatsapp). Communicate with them in Spanish (preferable; pro tip: use Google Translate) or English. Cost for a Huaraz-Rondoy trip is $120-$180 USD each way + S/20 tip.
Equipment and Food
Given the quantity of elevation gain and loss, I recommend going light or hiring porters. Expect temperatures around 10C during the day and -5C at night. These are the non-obvious staples that I recommend:
Camping & Hiking
Technical
Food
- Pack. 35-40L
- Money. S/300 per person for trekking and camping fees, extracted locally. Please do not try to haggle or avoid paying fees as it jeopardizes access to the Alpine Circuit.
Camping & Hiking
- Tent. An ultralight tent (ideally < .5 kg such as the Hyperlite or X-Mid Pro 2; leave the mesh/body in Huaraz)
- Sleeping bag. rated to -5C or -10C + lightweight inflatable mattress
- Stove. A light, efficient stove (e.g., Jetboil) with one fuel canister per 2 people
- Footwear. Trail-running shoes (comfort and traction on sloping dirt/grass are key) with optional micro gaitors strike a nice balance between flexibility and beef.
- Hiking poles. Telescoping necessary for ultralight tents.
- Guide. A printout of the route description
- Map. A physical map (available at pixmap.org; optional)
- Water filter or water purification tabs. Cows are everywhere in the Huayhuash. Assume all water is contaminated.
- Technology. A smartphone with a mapping app (MapOut seems to work best but is only available on iPhones; Caltopo seems to work best on Android), the gpx track loaded onto it, the pdf guide downloaded, portable smartphone batteries and cable. A GPS communication device (e.g., Garmin inReach) to use in case of emergency, to get weather forecasts, and to communicate with the outfitter.
Technical
- Rope, lightweight harness, 3 carabiners, belay device. For most parties, a 30m rope is sufficient as long as one member of the party is comfortable down-climbing 15m of 4th class at Garagocha Col and Rasac Passes (see Days 2 & 7). If not, a 50+m rope is needed. No quick-draws are needed as all protection bolts have fixed quick-draws. Be prepared (e.g, with a daisy chain & 3 locking carabiners) to build an anchor off a 2-bolt belay at Garagocha Col and be able to secure yourself to an anchor. For parties whose members are all comfortable soloing blocky 5.0 rock (up and down) at altitude with a pack and stepping across a few small crevasses unroped, all of these materials may be expendable.
- Microspikes. Ultralight crampons (e.g., cheap & heavy; expensive & light) are be ideal for getting up the glacier to Rasac Pass.
- Ice axe. An ice axe is unnecessary for the majority of parties, especially if they have hiking poles.
- Ice screws and pickets. These are also unnecessary for most parties.
- Helmets. You decide. It’s your head. Personally, I like to have one for Garagocha Col and Rasac Pass.
Food
- For each day, I bring ~ 2000 calories:
- 1 cup of granola with 1/4 cup skim milk powder
- 3 energy bars (e.g, Clifbars)
- a few crackers with dehydrated humus
- a 600+ calorie freeze-dried meal
- coffee powder with 5g of creatine to aid muscle recovery
