Day 5. Trapecio Pass
Summary: A gradual ascent into the alpine, circling the majestic Trapecio, is followed by a dramatic unveiling of the major southern faces of the range at a high point. A glacier W of Trapecio Pass disappeared in the 2010s, opening this pass to Valley Circuit hikers and donkeys. After leaving the crowds at the high point, the day ends with an interesting lunar slab descent and a hike along a moraine crest.
Elevation Gain: 800m Elevation Loss: 800m Distance: 12km
Ascent: Cross a rock wall encircling Huayhuash camp and follow a trail up the right (W) side of the valley rising to the S for 3km. Curl over a shoulder to enter a valley to the W, with Trapecio looming above. A cliff band looms at the end of the valley. Follow either a quiet grassy route on the left (recommended) or a busy moraine crest trail up the centre of the valley to ascend through the cliff band. The trails converge above the cliff band in a lake-strewn hanging plateau. Pass Trapecio Lakes then follow a trail on scree up to the continental divide at Trapecio Pass (4910m). Do not descend the other side (to Elefante Camp). Instead, turn right (S) and follow a faint trail uphill on red rock, to a notch (5110m) with incredible views of Carnicero, Sarapo, and Siula Grande.
Descent: Leave the Valley Circuit crowd and scramble down to a col due W of the viewpoint, then walk down easy scree to the NW (there was a glacier here until about 2022), following a trail on a scree-covered shoulder beside the glacier. This leads to a lunar slab descent. Descend to the W then the NW down easy scree and high-friction slabs (cairns). Reach a cairned bench around 4740m. Traverse left (S) to exit the slabs into a grassy gully. Descend to cow pastures atop the moraine S of Jurau Lake. Follow a trail on the moraine until directly above the outflow of the lake then down to a sandy camp either between Jurau Lake (4343m) and a tiny lake to its W or continue on, crossing the moraine to the NW on a good trail and camp by a creek in grassy pastures in the Sarapococha Valley.
Summary: A gradual ascent into the alpine, circling the majestic Trapecio, is followed by a dramatic unveiling of the major southern faces of the range at a high point. A glacier W of Trapecio Pass disappeared in the 2010s, opening this pass to Valley Circuit hikers and donkeys. After leaving the crowds at the high point, the day ends with an interesting lunar slab descent and a hike along a moraine crest.
Elevation Gain: 800m Elevation Loss: 800m Distance: 12km
Ascent: Cross a rock wall encircling Huayhuash camp and follow a trail up the right (W) side of the valley rising to the S for 3km. Curl over a shoulder to enter a valley to the W, with Trapecio looming above. A cliff band looms at the end of the valley. Follow either a quiet grassy route on the left (recommended) or a busy moraine crest trail up the centre of the valley to ascend through the cliff band. The trails converge above the cliff band in a lake-strewn hanging plateau. Pass Trapecio Lakes then follow a trail on scree up to the continental divide at Trapecio Pass (4910m). Do not descend the other side (to Elefante Camp). Instead, turn right (S) and follow a faint trail uphill on red rock, to a notch (5110m) with incredible views of Carnicero, Sarapo, and Siula Grande.
Descent: Leave the Valley Circuit crowd and scramble down to a col due W of the viewpoint, then walk down easy scree to the NW (there was a glacier here until about 2022), following a trail on a scree-covered shoulder beside the glacier. This leads to a lunar slab descent. Descend to the W then the NW down easy scree and high-friction slabs (cairns). Reach a cairned bench around 4740m. Traverse left (S) to exit the slabs into a grassy gully. Descend to cow pastures atop the moraine S of Jurau Lake. Follow a trail on the moraine until directly above the outflow of the lake then down to a sandy camp either between Jurau Lake (4343m) and a tiny lake to its W or continue on, crossing the moraine to the NW on a good trail and camp by a creek in grassy pastures in the Sarapococha Valley.
approaching Trapecio Pass with Trapecio behind
Final ascent to Trapecio Pass.
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Glacial recession north of Trapecio Pass
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slab descent
descent to Jurau Lake
Camp at Jurau Lake
I thought of first ascents as works of art, not competitive triumphs.
~Jeff Lowe, FA solo of SE face of Trapecio
