process & permission & conflict of interest statement
​I reached out to, discussed with, and collaborated with members of a Huaraz guiding association (Asociación de Guías de Montaña del Perú (AGMP)) and the first ascentionists before, during, and after adding hardware. The president of the AGMP (Beto Pinto) established a dialogue with the Huayhuash communities and received permission in advance. My friends and I funded the project ourself and stand to gain nothing financially from the changes.

2025 changes

1.  Itinerary/ Route. I made a number of changes to the suggested itinerary.

• Re-routing the first part of Day 2 (Garagocha Col) via a safer, easier, and more direct route (Quique's Ridge). Before the development of Quique's Ridge, the route to Garagocha Col crossed a sketchy, sandy traverse at the top of a cliff with rockfall hazard from above. Looking up at the old traverse, my "Spidey Sense" said "no". I avoided the traverse via a challenging, steep grass climb in 2019. Between 2019 and 2025, I thought often about a better approach. Quique Apolinario discovered one in 2025 and we cairned and equipped it together. 
• Increased the number of recommended days from 7 to 8. Day 2 used to go from Garagocha Lake to Chaclan Lake and was quite long. I now recommend taking 2 days to complete this section. Crossing Garagocha Pass is a feat unto itself. Adding in a full afternoon of uphill hiking after it seems like too much for most people. Fit people have bonked on what was the afternoon of day 2. 
• Offering a quieter but more challenging high route over Cerro Yanacocha as an optional alternative of the Siula Lakes chain on Day 4. One of the things I love about the Alpine Circuit is the solitude. The trail heading up to Siula Pass is busy with Valley Circuit insta-kids.
• Recommending camping in Huayhuash Camp rather than at Trapecio Lakes at the end of Day 4. Until 2025, I recommended finishing Day 4 with a big uphill hike. My experience is that walking at altitude is hard, walking at altitude uphill is harder, walking uphill at altitude with a pack is harder still, and doing it in the afternoon is the hardest. Adjustments to the itinerary avoid all afternoon uphills.
• Making minor changes to the gpx on the slab descent on Day 5 (Trapecio Pass). Since developing this route in 2004, others found an easier way through the slabs and cairned the route. The updated gpx reflects these organic developments.  
• Offering a more difficult & adventurous conclusion to the Alpine Circuit on Day 8 (Sambuya Pass). Most of us are pretty tired by the time we top out on Sambuya Pass on day 8. For those that have something left in the tank and are looking for a wild finish, this option is now documented.
• Describing a partially donkey-supported option for those who are so inclined.  Maybe I'm getting old but I appreciate creature comforts more than I did in the past. Perhaps I'm not alone in this?

2. Protection. I added protection (28 bolts, 45m of chain, 9 fixed quickdraws, 2 rappel stations) to cruxes of the two most technical days.

• Day 2 (Garagocha Col)
  • Equipped 2 short sections of the new Quique's Ridge with chains. These additions made Quique's Ridge no harder than 3rd class and in line with the difficulties of the rest of the Alpine Circuit. Moreover, they make this new variation a viable and attractive alternative to the sketchy, sandy, dangerous traverse that was the standard route until June 2025.
  • Added bolts with fixed quickdraws, an anchor, hand rail chains, and a rappel anchor to the top of Garagocha col. The goal was to make Garagocha col well-protected for people with rock/mountain climbing experience and equipment. For the past 20 years, it hasn't sat right with me that most of the Alpine Circuit is easy to difficult hiking but then there are these moments where free soloing skills are needed. These cruxes had difficulties and dangers that were out of character with the rest of the route. My intention with these additions was to make the focus on freedom of the hills, athleticism, and adventure and to better manage risk.

• Day 7 (Rasac Pass)
  • Added a chain to the top of Rasac Pass.  Similar to the above thinking, climbing what used to be an exposed, slippery 5.0 dirt section felt like taking one's life into their own hands and was out of character with the difficulty of the rest of the route.
  • Added a rappel anchor to the 4th class down-climb section below Rasac Pass.  Similar rationale as above. Down-climbing awkward 4th class with a pack isn't in line with the difficulties of the rest of the Alpine Circuit. The rappel is currently 25m. An intermediate rappel anchor has been drilled but not yet installed.

yours truly installing bolts at Garagocha Col

new rappel anchor below Rasac Pass

All protection bolts have fixed quickdraws for user friendliness

new hand-rail chain descending from Garagocha Col